Free Crochet Mermaid Dress for Barbie

You will need:

• Yarn that knits to 3mm needles
• 3mm crochet hook
• 2.5mm crochet hook
• Yarn needle
• Stitch marker

Techniques used (UK terminology):

• ch: chain
• slst: slip stitch
• yo: yarn over
• dc: double crochet (US sc, single crochet).  Insert hook, yo, draw hook through both loops
• htc: half treble crochet (US hdc, half double crochet).  Yarn round hook, insert hook, yo, draw hook through all three loops
• tc: treble crochet (US dc, double crochet).  Yarn round hook, insert hook, yo, draw hook through two loops, yo, draw hook through two remaining loops
• inc: work 2 dc into next stitch
• dc2tog: double crochet 2 together. Insert hook in next stitch, yo and pull up loop (2 loops on hook), insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over and draw through all 3 loops on hook
• tc3tog: treble crochet 3 together.  Yarn round hook, insert hook in next stitch, yo, draw hook through 2 loops (2 loops on hook), yarn round hook, insert hook in next stitch, yo, draw hook through 2 loops (3 loops on hook), yarn round hook, insert hook in next stitch, yo, draw hook through 2 loops (4 loops on hook), yo and draw hook through all 4 loops
• working in continuous rounds
• working rounds by joining

Tail

The tail is worked in crocodile stitch to give the appearance of scales.  It is not as complicated as it looks – all you need is to be able to make chains and trebles.  It is far easier to do than explain, so just pick up your yarn and hook and give it a go.  The tail is worked in the round, and crocodile stitch is even easier when worked in the round!!!

Before you start, it is worth understanding the principles of crocodile stitch.  Each row of scales is formed by working a row of ‘skeletons’, formed from a pair of trebles separated by a chain, from right to left (for right-handers) which can be charted as below:

The scales are then built by fleshing out the skeletons by turning the work 90 degrees in order to work 5 trebles on the left-most treble (let’s call it leg 1), a chain, then turning the work 180 degrees to work 5 trebles on the next treble of the skeleton pair (let’s call it leg 2).  The treble of the first scale of each row/round is formed by working 3 ch.  Scales are worked from left to right (for a right-hander), on alternate skeleton pairs.  In order to achieve an interlocking effect, scales are worked such that they alternate on subsequent rows.

When working in the round, an even number of skeletons is worked that is double the number of desired scales.

With a 3mm hook, make 6 ch and join with a slip stitch (don’t worry about twisting the chain)
Skeleton round 1:  Working into the circles, ch 3 to form the first tc, 1 tc, ch 1, (2 tc, ch 1) x 7.  Slst to top of ch 3 to join [8 skeletons]

Scale round 1: The hook will now be in the top of a skeleton.  Work the first scale by working 3 ch to form the first tc then 4 tc onto leg 1, ch 1, 5 tc onto leg 2 (refer to chart).  Work 4 scales round, on alternate skeletons.  Slst to corner top of 3 ch to join round.  The scales will ‘point downwards’ on the work.

Skeleton round 2: (Working right to left), ch 3 to form the first tc, tc between two scales, making sure to work between the pair of tc from the skeleton underneath, ch 1, 2 tc into middle of scale, ch 1.  Continue in this manner to the end of the round, slst to top of ch 3 to join [8 skeletons].  When working a skeleton between scales, always make sure to work between the skeleton.
Scale round 2:  Because of working in the round, in order to create interlocking scales, the skeleton at the beginning of a round will always be worked with scales, and the next one skipped.

Work 6 rounds of 4 scales per round

Increase round:   Ch 3 to form the first tc, tc between two scales.  Ch 1.  Work 2 tc behind the next scale in the ch 1 between skeletons under the scale, ch 1, work 2 tc behind the same scale in the ch 1 between skeletons under the scale, ch 1.  Continue in this way round until there are 12 skeletons, one between each scale and two behind each scale.  It’s a confusing round, but the the only of its type in the project (thank goodness!)

Continue working 6 scales per round until the tail measures 18 cm (or just try it on the doll for size and stop when it reaches her waist).

Dress bodice

The bodice is worked in trebles to give it a bit of stretch.  Slst to join to the first stitch of the round.  Ch 2 to give height (not counted as a stitch) then work the first tc of the round in the same stitch as the slst.


Round 1:  With scales facing, 36 dc round, working through the scales and the skeletons in order to join them.  This is easily done by working 1 dc between scales, 2 dc on the right half of each scale, 1 dc in the middle of each scale and 2 dc on the left half of each scale.  Slst to first stitch of round, ch 2
Round 2:  Change to 2.5mm hook.  36 tc round (see above). Slst to first stitch of round, ch 2
Round 3:  2 tc, tc3tog, (3tc, tc3tog) x 5, tc. Slst to first stitch of round, ch 2 [24]
Round 4-end: 24 tc round

Continue until work measures 24 cm (or until it covers the doll’s boobs)

Straps:

Work 5cm chain (I needed 15 ch), slst to 9th stitch.  htc, 6tc, htc, slst, work 5 cm chain, slst to first stitch.  Cut yarn and sew securely, weaving in loose ends.

Tail fins 
Made using continuous rounds.  Do not join or turn work.
Make two

Round 1:  Ch 2, 6 dc into 2nd chain on hook 
Round 2:  2 dc into each stitch round [12]
Rounds 3-5:  Work without shaping for 3 rounds
Round 6:  (1 dc, inc1) x 6 [18]
Rounds 7-9: Work without shaping for 3 rounds
Round 10:  (2 dc, inc1) x 6 [24]
Rounds 11-14: Work without shaping for 4 rounds
Rounds 15-16: 6 dc, 2 htc, 8 tc, 2 htc, 6 dc
Rounds 17-19:  Work without shaping for 3 rounds
Round 20:  (2 dc, dc2tog) x 6 [18]
Rounds 21-22: Work without shaping for 2 rounds
Round 23:  (1 dc, dc2tog) x 6 [12]
Rounds 24-25: Work without shaping for 2 rounds
Round 26: dc2tog x 6 [6]

Sew tail fins to bottom of tail and weave in loose ends